Benjamin Discovery Trigger Mod: 3-Screw Mod

This page preserves a guide originally written by forum member Jon and shared on the original AirgunOne.com community forum, active from 2008 until the site went offline. It's republished here for reference. If you're the original author and would like this removed or credited differently, contact info@airgunguide.com.

Disclaimer

Safety first. This tutorial was created for educational purposes. Should you choose to follow this tutorial, no one else but yourself will be responsible for any mishaps or mistakes that occur from the disassembly of your rifle. Please be sure you have the proper tools and skills to do this. Your manufacturer's warranty will most likely be dishonored should you take your Discovery apart on your own. Make sure your Discovery is unloaded and uncharged prior to disassembly.

Benjamin Discovery 3-Screw Trigger Mod

I couldn't be more thrilled about my new Discovery, but the characteristics of the factory trigger is one of the very few things that leaves a lot to be desired. There's lots of information on the Yellow forums and Crosman forums about doing trigger mods for the 2260, which also applies to the Discovery. Here's my writeup.

Tools

Here's some parts/tools you'll be needing:

.150" Hex Driver — McMaster-Carr Part #7400A11. This is not necessary if you have an allen that'll fit, but this driver makes working with that dreaded breech screw a breeze. You also won't be needing this if you're not removing the breech/barrel assembly, but it won't hurt to order one anyway with the rest of your parts to have handy.
6-32 Stainless Steel Set Screws — McMaster-Carr Part #92778A079. These are the screws you'll be using for your trigger mod. If you don't have a 6-32 hand tap and proper sized bit, you'll want to get that as well. Home Depot/Lowe's sells them for a couple bucks a set.
302 Stainless Steel Compression Spring — McMaster-Carr Part #9435K24. This is a much lighter spring that replaces the factory trigger return spring.

Getting It Done

The first step would be to remove the action from the stock. If the trigger is all you'll be working with, you won't need to remove your front sight assembly, barrel band, or the barrel/breech assembly from the air tube. Just remove the safety and the stock screw and you're ready to go.

Drilling/Threading

You'll want to drill/thread all the marked areas in the following photo. The 2 holes in the rear (1st stage and overtravel) already have holes in them from the factory. The third hole placement (sear engagement) will need to be punched, drilled and threaded. Drill that hole so it's just below the sear link.

You'll want to remove the entire trigger housing from the air tube to drill/thread these holes. To do that, simply remove the bolt just ahead of the trigger guard (the bolt that takes the stock screw).

Adjustments

The 1st Stage adjustment screw controls the amount of play you have in between the trigger hook and the link's tail. Adjust it to where you feel you have a comfortable 1st stage "feel." The overtravel screw is just that; it controls just how far back you want your trigger to go after the sear is disengaged.

The sear engagement screw is an easy one to figure out, but it's also where lots of people run into some issues. If it's set to make things too light, you may run across issues with accidental discharge and/or sear drag. Sear drag happens when you have the engagement screw set too high. It doesn't allow the sear enough clearance on the hammer resulting in the hammer dragging across it when firing.

Once you have your adjustment screws in there, put the trigger pack cover plate back on AND install your safety. Most of the time, a disco's sear won't engage without the safety button in place, adding tension against the sear spring. Once your cover/safety button is in place, cock the rifle and test. Feel for sear drag and make minor adjustments until you have it right where you want it. If it's a rather light pull you have it set for, also test it for accidental discharges, by slapping the rear a few times while it's cocked. If it holds fine and there's no sear drag, you're good to go.

In mine I added a brass washer to the sear and link pin (with some moly) to help hold it more securely in place. I used washers from a bag I bought at Lowe's (I'm sure Home Depot has them too).

From the Original Comments

manzo asked: "In the last photo it appears that you have left out the trigger spring, is that intentional?"

Jon replied: "I can't remember but if I did leave it out, it wasn't intentional as I was focusing on some other things. I believe it is still in there though, and a combination of the lighting and the fact that the spring sits behind the adjustment screw and partly behind the trigger may be hiding most of it."

Shuvel wrote: "Thanks for all the info. I was able to finish today. This really makes a difference."