DIY targets

I'm always messing around making targets for air guns. So many I've' forgotten where I've put them and what I've made. They turn up in a storage garage all the time. This weekend I was making 100 yard targets and some metal hanging balls for closer range. Pretty simple bend a U frame and weld some  nuts to the ends to hold the target bar.

They fold flat for transport.

I like electrical boxes to use for a rubber landscape mulch holder. I cut a hole a little smaller than a standard size paper.

When the box is filled with mulch I put a piece of cardboard on top and the target page on top of that. Close the lid and it's held firmly in place. When it's shot up I replace the cardboard and shoot it up again.

Some boxes have their own lock, others I just add a hasp.

Thats a great idea with the rubber mulch and electrical box. Thank you very much for the ideas.

Made a "Know your limits" target.

The tab was to hold a sighting target.

All great targets. Good work. Craig

A friend asked if my 'Know your limit' target would take a .30 hit. I thought it would but just in case made one very heavy duty. Using strap metal for hangers meant less welding on top and a more narrow hanger making it harder to hit instead of  the target. The larger circles are washers welded together with a bolt ground to fill the center. I'm pretty sure it can take any .30 hit and be fine.

This one was for a further distance but be able to take a large caliber hit for target practice. Some don't like the idea of the round metal balls due to the chance of ricochets. It's intended to be out 50 yards or better. I have a three ball hanger in my back yard and it hasn't been an issue yet.  This one is just some threaded bar stock and nuts to hold the spinners in place. The hanging arms are screw in type eye bolts. I used them because they had a smaller eye than the threaded ones and were larger diameter. Welded a long and short one sideXside to make a upper/lower spinner.

Nut on the end with stand post welded to it allows for it to remove the legs for transport.

Can you tell it's a slow day at work??? 😉 

I'd made this style to hold the small orange shatter blast targets but didn't like the mess I was leaving in the environment. So I made this style to hole Ritz crackers and Necko wafers. That way the critters get a treat rather than a pile of orange debris.

This was the original mess maker.

Nice work, now I need a welding machine.. 😛 

Posted by: Acruz

Nice work, now I need a welding machine.. 😛 

Thanks, It's all done with a 110 volt wire feed that is quite easy to use. I've been told even the Harbor Freight $100ish 120 v wire feed works well with higher quality wire. I use a Lincoln from Home Depot. If you weld like me get a grinder too. 😉 😀  

Posted by: Acruz

Nice work, now I need a welding machine.. 😛 

Well now you don't. I was a Freight Harbor and noticed this support roller stand.

They are only $16 and I thought the folding support base would make a great target stand. It's adjustable for height and the top can be made removable with a couple pins instead of the supplied bolts for transport breakdown. All I did on this one was flatten the roller holder and give the end tabs a slight twist to level a stud that was then screwed to the modified roller piece.

Then you can just drill holes in the stud to slide in targets that are designed to be pushed into the ground. All those low cost spinners you see at Walmart or Cabella's can now be used higher up. I like to shoot paper as well. Drilled two holes in the wood and stuck some bar stock in them. With a cardboard backing and few paper clips I now have a paper target holder.

I did buy a couple of the stands and made another 'Know Your Limits' target out of that one. Welding required. 😉 

I can't leave well enough alone. I wanted to put more targets on the roller base. Sooooo, I got rid of the original modified roller base and made slide in stems that drop into the square roller base top. Just slide in and I can make multiple mounts for different targets. The little nipples are to make it tighter in the post. It wiggled a little so they tightened it up when slid in.

This one was a favorite of my son and I. We often shoot together and it can get a little competitive. You load it with shotgun shells and set it out about 40 yards. Race to see who can set the most off. 🙂 

I also made a new 'Know Your Limit' top. A little larger spinners for using at more distance.

Made bases for the wood as well.

Well, I've been playing around in the garage again. Made this "Race" target where you try to beat the other guy to the end. Hitting the spinners high advances one way, hit it low and it backs up to race back. Also, if you are behind you can shoot the other guys low to back them up. 😏 

Just some threaded bar stock with a coupler  nut for the indicator holder.

Made a triple spinner with a couple hanger options too.

Making a universal base so it can be used without having to drive posts into the ground and hold other stands.

As much just passing time now that it is so cold and dark so early now.

Nice job & lots of ideas for anyone wanting to build targets.

Thanks for sharing.
X/BillyD..

Pluric, NOW I know what I still need for Christmas — a welding machine.

And, NOW I know what to do with all the free time I don't have — spend it on building cool targets like yours!

Thanks for sharing. I'm saving a PDF file of this thread for future reference in my GUN archive on the computer.

And — I subscribed to this topic: Who knows what other contraptions you'll be publishing here...?!? 😆 

Thanks guys. Here is another one. Tree style that the target flips to the other side when hit. Put a couple hanging spinners on too. I did cant if forward a little so the flippers have gravity help drop them all the way.

Just some angle iron with a coupler bolt welded in to hold the flipper hinge pin.

Not my best weld, looks like someone stepped on a toothpaste tube. At 80 yards you can't see it. 😉 

The ground was so hard the last time out I couldn't get the field target posts in. So these are the bases I made. Ground a slot in the support hole to fit the anti spin plate on the support post. The targets won't spin when hit now. Works much better than the ground giving way and them falling over. Plus they are higher up to be seen in grass or shrub areas.

Been at it again. A local airgun store was interested in a re-settable plate target. I said I'd make a prototype and see if they liked it. Wanted a string pull reset. This one has 3" circles. 

I made it so the targets are easily replaced. You just pull the target holder bar out and slide the new targets on. So if you want smaller circles or whatever it can be changed out. The rod with the ball on it is the ballast to drop the pull up bar after resetting it.

First one I've made so there was some testing after it was done. The issue I had was on the above .22 guns hitting the front plate could have enough impact to have the target fall. Tried some different angles and finally found the best solution was some auto rated rubber molding for the targets to stop on. Gave it enough cushion to keep the plate shock from transferring to the target.

Edit:

After shooting it some it was a little too easy at 30 yards so I made another one for shorter distance shooting. Starts with the 3" circles and then drops in size to keep one humble. 😉 

Still playing around with re-settable ideas. A lot of experimentation going on. First I wanted to try the it upside down to avoid ballast on the targets. So far I haven't been able to get the targets to swing up and grab the magnetic bar with consistency. Still working on the inverted system. So I switched and went for a knock down instead of up style. Again, much trial and error. Too much target on the magnetic bar and the reset takes too much energy to rotate them off. Then the getting the magnet to rotate back after the release took so much ballast bar that again small caliber pellets couldn't reset it. I just was about to scrap the plan when I sat at work trying to figure it out in my head what could work. Success! Shortened the release target, moved the magnet catches to only the front magnetic bar, and found a neat return spring that allowed the elimination of a ballast return bar. No string to pull and so far works great.

So the targets fall back on a magnetic bar. Shooting the middle target rotates the bar enough to release the targets. A ballast below the target hanger pulls it upright to shoot again.

This spring rotates the magnetic bar back into position.

I put a stop for both directions so it can't over rotate and on the return the bar is even again for the drop targets.

What I was talking about on just using one of the magnetic runners. Using both sides held it too tight for the reset to work. Just needed enough for the target to be held down.

My backyard target range was a clutter of separate targets. I decided to consolidate most of them into one style of a single holder. I may still add a tree style on top. The race game on top is removable.  The holders on top will also hold my field targets. So I can switch it up for variety.

Decided to make an accessory for the above backyard stand.  Tree style that when it flips the holes make if much more of a challenge to get the return. Kind of a Field Target idea. The target is removable so I can slide other options in as well.

I made a couple free standing ones too. 

Utah Airguns is the shop that has asked me to make them some targets for their indoor range. When I was there I noticed the ground level was getting quite cluttered with a lot of targets. I asked why they didn't put some higher? The range master was concerned they could get in the way of paper targets hung on the back wall if they did a competition using those. So I made some that can get out of the way. I made two of these so side by side shooters could compete if they wanted to. 

Lift it about an inch and it folds back out of the way.

The ceiling has angled drops with a flat backside. For that I did a drop animal silhouette.

On the flat back side I used a spring broom clip to swing it up and out of the way when not needed.

Good job! You know you have done it right when I now have to go shoot a target! Talk about target envy. You must go outside and never come back!

Posted by: Android

Good job! You know you have done it right when I now have to go shoot a target! Talk about target envy. You must go outside and never come back!

Thank you. I've created a bit of a monster. I sit at work and try to think of new options. Just ordered some torsion springs from Grainger to try out a few thoughts. Will be working on some stringless reset stuff too. Maybe some field target items that have a stringless reset. Hmmmm. 😉 

Who doesn't like to shoot army men silhouettes? I'd ordered some knock down men off ebay out of China. Decided to make them into a reset experiment. Too much hassle to make an individual reset so I put them a little closer together and made one reset for two men. 

The reset target is between them and I welded the pick up arms off of it so that one shot picks up both men. When hit they fall back on the pick up bar. Slid some surgical tubing on the pick up bar to soften the fall and take some of the clang noise out.

Hit the reset and they are stood up again ready to take incoming sniper fire. 😉 

By welding the men a little forward on the square stock they rotate on made them  want to fall forward onto the front stop plate. So they create their own ballast.

Not the most heavy duty silhouettes. Should be fine for up to a .22. 

My first motor driven target. Ferris Wheel style. 

The targets hang as it rotates and are made to swing back when hit.

Pretty good challenge to keep up with. 🙂 

Made a couple flip back targets and converted a knock down rat to a Field target reset. Got some springs from Grainger. You can bend them some to get the amount of return you want. I didn't want it too stiff or it doesn't flop much.

The rat was a free standing knock down. Made it into a Field Target style with a target reset so no string.

This is my most ambitious project to date. Still scratching my head on how it will end up. A cam arm rotates and makes the arms go up and down like a teeter-tooter. I then want to put rods. like a push rod on a car, to power pop up targets. It has a rpm speed control so I will be able to pick any pop up speed I want. Work in progress.....

I finished my pop up target. I did decide to remove the second arm. It was just getting too wide and heavy. I can't load a video but it turned out fine. The motor is speed adjustable so you can make it as challenging as you want. 

Used the spring loaded return set up.

The shooting range that uses these has been done in a desert motif with a railroad track to an old mine. So I made some decor appropriate targets mounted on pick heads and ax heads. Same spring return. They work quite well to let you know they've been hit.

If anyone is interested in making some here is the spring I'm using from Grainger.

Here is what their range looks like.

What have I done? The shooting range that I have been making some targets for wants to try and retail some. I have been there when shooters asked about the targets and where they could get some. I'd made a couple sets more as a favor. I was talking with the owner and asked if wanted some for the showroom in case anyone wanted one. Hope I have not created a monster. 😖 😀  "Know Your Limit" seem to be a favorite so I made two different styles.

Even did a little marketing poster....

Busy weekend trying some new target ideas. This one goes around and up and down. The targets also can spin so they may not be in the same position next time around.

As it rotates the bars follow the contour of the yellow pipe to go up and down.

I'd made these speed silhouette practice targets before but with the target on top with ballast arms hanging down. I like this design better. Much lighter and easier to make. They fold flat when picked up for easy transport.

The airgun range asked for another Ferris wheel. So finished that and the up and down one. Ordered a plasma cutter. 🤔 This could get interesting. 😯

Just a link to a topic that goes with DIY targets.

https://airgunwarriors.com/community/metal-shop/first-time-plasma-cutter-user/#post-25558

Nice work! I especially liked the ritz crackers idea. I'm doing research now and mulling over options. I've been mulling over some sort of IDPA-ish steel target for dust devils (probably without the head), and  maybe a center clanger so you can tell from sound if you're in the high scoring part.

This year the Utah R.M.A.C. (Rocky Mountain Airgun Challenge) had a first place prize of $10,000 for the 100 yard event. They have announced it will be $20,000 for 2020. Worth practicing for so I made a metal quadrant circle target the same size as the 100 yard paper target. Made a large square one too.

After participating I have a few target modifications I want to suggest for the event. I made a lot of the targets they use so it helped to see the course and get an idea of the layout. 

They look great, looks like you have been busy since RMAC. I thought you only made targets in the winter 😀

Dave...

Posted by: Davec107

They look great, looks like you have been busy since RMAC. I thought you only made targets in the winter 😀

Dave...

Busted. 🤣  That was my intent but I wanted to try a couple ideas why they were fresh on my mind. I'll post some new combinations soon. What killed me was I ran into David Corder at RMAC who makes the quadrant targets for AoA. Just the nicest guy. He gave me direction to the pipe material and a carbide shop saw he recommends. So I bought the metal and saw and it's a game changer! I asked if he had any patents or objection to me making similar quadrants and he was totally cool with me making whatever. I think he took it over from Steelplinkers. 

With summer finally here the water is calling so I do plan on cutting back. The shop did say they were out of Know Your Limit targets and after seeing what three days of pellet barrage did to the event targets I may have to bring them home to the "Target Hospital" and perform some reconstructive surgery. 😉 

Makita 12 inch carbide chop saw. It is night and day difference in speed and cut quality over an abrasive chop saw. They are pricey, but quality is soooo much better. If you get good quality blades they can be resharpened and missing teeth replaced. Cuts just have a slight bur on one edge and usually no need to run a bit thru the inside of tube as it comes out clean..

Dave

Well that isn't embarrassing at all. 😨 I didn't even look at the forum name and put together that it was you responding to my post. I swear I get more brain dead everyday. Let me publicly thank you again for your advice and kind permission to plagiarize your work.

Rick  

Lol, hey Rick if your bringing targets in for hospital work, please do not repair that fariswheel of humiliation/despair. It kicked my rear at RMAC

Posted by: Davec107

Lol, hey Rick if your bringing targets in for hospital work, please do not repair that fariswheel of humiliation/despair. It kicked my rear at RMAC

I had a AoA shooter come up to me the first day and rave how fun it was and how much he liked it. The next day he teasingly cursed me for making it. It can humble a shooter. I'm thinking of making one more to keep for practice. My son has the timing down great and rocks it. I'm just throwing lead out there with my fingers crossed. 🤒 

I had one of the original Steelplinkers that you drove into the ground.

Didn’t like it and ask Dave C for a base.

I also have a two paddle swinger.

I tried to put them together.

I used JB Weld epoxy to hold on the Yellow one.

I guess I will either have to use the regular JB Weld or have it welded on...

Hey Frank, bring it with you to Yolo this weekend and I'll take it home and weld it and return it next match if you want..

Dave

Posted by: Frank in Fairfield

I had one of the original Steelplinkers that you drove into the ground.

Didn’t like it and ask Dave C for a base.

I also have a two paddle swinger.

I tried to put them together.

I used JB Weld epoxy to hold on the Yellow one.

I guess I will either have to use the regular JB Weld or have it welded on...

I can't imagine JB weld working for holding a target. I'd go for the weld. Nice shooting on the 3 way spinner. I was just getting ready to weld one up.

The other ones are going to be a combo hanger. At the last event you got  a point for hitting a hanging silhouette. I thought it might be fun to put a smaller spinner inside it and give more points for hitting it. The extra challenge being they are timed events so you have to decide if it's worth spending it taking the care to get it in the sights or just go for the large option. Also on the larger silhouettes I'll try to put them in the smallest area so if you do miss the spinner you may miss the whole target.

I think I will stop by the muffler shop and ask a favor....

Trying a few ideas to pitch for next years RMAC event. I thought adding a spinner inside the hanging target and giving it a bonus point value would be a fun upgrade. They are timed events so you are already pressed to find the hangers at different distances then have to decide is it worth the time to focus on the mini spinner? Also it could give shooters who fell behind hope of getting "back in the game" if they could hit the extra points option. The quadrant was just something I wanted to make in a smaller version. Quadrants are pretty labor intensive.

The quadrant is made to breakdown so I added a couple holders to my target stand and can use it on that as well.

One of the Texas Star spinning targets I made went to the shooting event without armor. I think people were using the leg as a sighter. 😮  

Told them I'd do a little warranty work on it and replaced the stand and put 3/16 flat plat on the legs. I can't bitch about the .30 guns being used because I was shooting one as well. 😳 

All happy and ready to take on another event.

My first try at a remote control reset knock down target. The plan is to make two of these for a speed challenge event. Did 15 knockdowns intentionally so there would be a mandatory magazine change and the 8 shot magazine guns would have more level playing field. The last shot would be for the final knock down to determine who got there first.

Ordered some 12v linear actuators from ebay. Didn't have a clue how much travel I would need so I started with 8 inches. Turns out for this project 4 inches is fine. I know there's a dirty joke in there somewhere. 😜  Anyway, found a relatively high speed (50mm a second) actuator and made this. I wish I could upload a video. It takes three seconds to reset, another three to lower the reset bar. I walked out about 75 yards and the remote still triggered the actuator so that should be plenty. I will add the front armor later when the second one is done. 

@pluric great idea with the cracker holder

Holy crap!!! That's awesome! -Nate

Did more of a "re-purpose" on this set up. Cleaning out a clients garage and they had several old angle iron bed frames and a metal frame For Sale sign that I thought would be better to re use than take to the dump.

The cut angle became the base.

The For Sale frame stands on it.

Used the old metal insert as the template to cut cardboard to fit inside it. Couple pinch clamps and I can now put target paper on it.

I think I'll add a Know Your Limit set up like this in the lower space. Just make it more versatile. 

Another re use item. A local reclamation center had a brand new metal First Aid box for $5. I'd been looking for a larger metal box with a lid to make into a 25 meter target mulch box. This was perfect. It will hold the full size target. Just cut the lid for the target opening and filled it with mulch. I left the shelves to help hold mulch. Plus it was easier than taking them out.

I did put a Know Your limit and rat hanger on the target frame. Had the perfect space for it.

An employee at Utah Airguns was showing me his video of shooting 400 yards with a modified AirForce Texan. It was shooting 257 slugs. I told him I'd make him a long distance practice quadrant. Went with 10 inch square.

I thought this would be a good combination for one of the courses at the competition. Make it a off hand round. The first four silhouettes would be maybe 25-30 yards out, then 40-60 yards on the bigger hangers. I did put the bonus small spinners on the distance ones to try for extra points.

@pluric

As Nate put it: AWSOME !   😆 

I was out shooting this weekend and it was slim pickings on live targets. I had some silhouettes laying around from when I was practicing with my plasma cutter. Got looking at them and thought I'd turn them into break down travel targets that I could keep in a toolbox on the UTV. Pot Guts, ground squirrels, are a favorite to shoot in early and late spring.

So I spring-loaded them and put a mount that 3/8 rod could slide through. That way I can break it down and have front and rear support so impact doesn't flip it back and the return doesn't flip it forward.

Tested it out off hand at 25 yards. Just what I wanted. 😊 

I then had some small bird ones. Starling and sparrow size. This is what I did with those. Everything slides together for a complete break-down.

I'll make a few more options and keep them on the UTV so don't get skunked on the shooting next time. 😎 

Decided to add a few more target options to my UTV portable break down target set. Here is what I have so far. I made all the support legs the same length so everything can interchange.

The bird support had some wiggle in it so I put wing-nut bolts to be able to snug it up.

It all breaks down and fits into a toolbox.

Room for a few more options but I don't know that I would need much more for an afternoon of playing around.

@pluric

wow that some skill making target I make target not type of skill level iam blown a way  dude  your DIY target are the bomb  I like them 

Posted by: @blackswordshinobi

@pluric

wow that some skill making target I make target not type of skill level iam blown a way  dude  your DIY target are the bomb  I like them 

Thank you! I just want to be clear many of my silhouettes are purchased. I just then use them for what I'm wanting to make. Many vendors will not put bases on them if you request them not to. I just cut them off if needed. I've started to play with a plasma cutter. Off hand nothing custom. Here are a couple links if anyone wants to check out some sources.

https://magnumtarget.com/product-category/knock-overs/

http://www.thetargetguy.com/

What is your current level of proficiency cutting with plasma?

Meat thermometer says this sausage was done in the 4th degree... tasted fine, ozone smell excluded.

View post on imgur.com

Posted by: @pluric

Posted by: @blackswordshinobi

@pluric

wow that some skill making target I make target not type of skill level iam blown a way  dude  your DIY target are the bomb  I like them 

Thank you! I just want to be clear many of my silhouettes are purchased. I just then use them for what I'm wanting to make. Many vendors will not put bases on them if you request them not to. I just cut them off if needed. I've started to play with a plasma cutter. Off hand nothing custom. Here are a couple links if anyone wants to check out some sources.

https://magnumtarget.com/product-category/knock-overs/

http://www.thetargetguy.com/

@pluric ;

will not at this time I am give you a good comment  there awesome  but maybe one day I will buy one but not at this time I get know you first iam still new here I just install DonnyFl  threated front plate so I can put on it suppressor 

Posted by: @gratewhitehuntr

What is your current level of proficiency cutting with plasma?

Meat thermometer says this sausage was done in the 4th degree... tasted fine, ozone smell excluded.

View post on imgur.com

Speaking of, I've always wanted a Shooting Gallery style ducks going in a circle. So just this week I started on making one. First I needed ducks so out came the plasma cutter.

Made the wheel for them to drop back on.

When hit they will drop back flat.

As it rotates the ballast weight will stand it up as it comes around, I hope. 😉 

Of course yellow would be the only acceptable duck color. 😀 

I'm going to make this 12v DC powered to be portable. Motor should be in next week. I'll put a remote start/stop switch on it. I plan to have a half circle protection plate in front so all you will see is the duck. That's the plan in my head anyway. Shootin' from the hip on this one.

Almost done with the Duck Shooting Gallery. I wish I could do videos, it's pretty cute when it's running. I'll have a wireless remote to turn it off and on.

One bolt holds the duck target so I made a small circle target for a shooting event to add some more challenge and extra points if hit. Can change back quickly.

Drive unit.

I'm going to put removable legs on it so it can stand alone or on a table. Kind of nostalgic. 🙂 

A rotating wheel that resets at the bottom position is a great idea!

Spraying with the door closed... not so much...

Posted by: @gratewhitehuntr

A rotating wheel that resets at the bottom position is a great idea!

Spraying with the door closed... not so much...

😀 If you knew how many times my wife has stuck her head through the house door and asked: "How can you breathe in here?" Between the welder and paint it gets a little toxic. Too cold to leave the main door open.

A single air change would reduce VOC by <80% without much heat loss. All that junk... er... thermal mass... yah know...

You posses the capability to produce a fume hood... remember that even IF your electrodes are free of contaminants, your base metal is unknown and welding can/will liberate impurities.

I can totally sympathize, super cold here tonight, had to quit rewiring a POS Jeep early when my hands went numb...

64 degrees??? That's shorts and tank top weather here. 😉 🙂 

Got a chance to try out the Shooting Gallery this morning. It's FUN! Called my son to run over for a little shoot out. Gave the ducks 25 points and the small circle 100 points. 

We went through a lot of lead! Simple rules. 25 yard off hand, 5 shots. Mind game whether to go conservative on the larger ducks or go for the kill on the circle?

So far it survived the assault. 🙂 

Testing to see if I can load a video.

Edit:

Fail, it says the file is too large. 6 second video? I have it on youtube but don't know how to get it here?

@pluric

You simply paste the Youtube url into your post, it will auto embed.

Try again,

May have created a monster here. 😉 

Great work! At what distance and with what kind of airgun do you plan to shoot them?(Edit: Just saw you had posted the distance-- that's challenging at 25 yards!)

Offhand shooting practice with moving targets is the most challenging and rewarding. I wish I could have a go at those targets. 

I really do envy people like you who have great design and mechanical skills. I wish there were some affordable commercially available target options such as you have built. 

Your next design should be a randomly timed pop up target that presents itself for a fixed time. Or better yet randomly timed start moving target!

Posted by: @functor

Great work! At what distance and with what kind of airgun do you plan to shoot them?(Edit: Just saw you had posted the distance-- that's challenging at 25 yards!)

Offhand shooting practice with moving targets is the most challenging and rewarding. I wish I could have a go at those targets. 

I really do envy people like you who have great design and mechanical skills. I wish there were some affordable commercially available target options such as you have built. 

Your next design should be a randomly timed pop up target that presents itself for a fixed time. Or better yet randomly timed start moving target!

Thank you.

We shot them, the duck spinner, today with a Beeman R7. It didn't have enough energy to flip a duck.I'm sure my Vermiator in a .177 would do it. Mostly it will be .22-.30.  We found 30 seconds, 5 shots was a good challenge. So much of our shooting is done timed it would be hard to have a random time stop if one shooter didn't get the same target opportunities as another shooter. I like the idea,

I know what you mean by limited affordable power target options. Caldwell made a shooting gallery for $300. I have one. Gamo had a back forth on a track that was discontinued. The ones I make are generally one off and with my limited equipment pretty time consuming. So I would have a hard time selling for less than $1,000. If I make a copy it takes less time because I've done the trial and error and that helps. 

@pluric

If there were more commercially available airgun targets such as you have designed, or competitions that prioritized timed offhand shooting at moving targets, new airguns might focus more on ergonomics and shootability and we may be reminded why light low magnification scopes were so good.  There is a tendency to dismiss "plinking" as less than serious shooting, but I think plinking done right, at challenging and innovative targets, is actually a more comprehensive test of one's shooting ability, and is far more enjoyable as well. 5 shots in 30 seconds on moving targets using a single shot spring piston rifle is harder than most kind of shooting I can think of. 

I hope some company buys the rights of producing this from you and can offer this at a price the market will bear. One can hope!

@functor

Agreed. Yesterday I had my son and his cousin over and it was a 3 way shoot out. Became as much strategy as to do you go for the small target for points or the ducks for easier points? It takes ten seconds for the small to come around. It was really fun! We were all using magazine guns. If single shots would have been involved we would have increased the time. Something about having a timer running and knowing what you have to beat plays a mind game with you. The smack talk doesn't help. 😕 My son loves to get in your head. 🤣 

I've ordered another motor and am going to make another one. Just something about the style and nostalgia feeling appeals to me. Plus it's more compact so easier to travel with.

I have no rights, so anyone or company is welcome to make them better/cheaper. 😎  I'm happy to provide a parts list if anyone is interested.

Rick

Nice work Rick, I can tell it's cold in your area due to the target creations getting made. I guess fishing is done until it warms up. 

I can't wait to see what you create next. I need to find the time to build some motorized targets. I just can't seem to find the time at the moment. When I do find time I'll be calling you for advice. 🤯  making targets is very time consuming I wish there was a faster and easier way,  but I haven't found it yet. Well off to the shop I go, more cutting to do...⚒⛏

Dave

Posted by: @davec107

Nice work Rick, I can tell it's cold in your area due to the target creations getting made. I guess fishing is done until it warms up. 

I can't wait to see what you create next. I need to find the time to build some motorized targets. I just can't seem to find the time at the moment. When I do find time I'll be calling you for advice. 🤯  making targets is very time consuming I wish there was a faster and easier way,  but I haven't found it yet. Well off to the shop I go, more cutting to do...⚒⛏

Dave

Thank you. I took the spinning duck to an indoor event last night. They set it out at 20 yards and allowed .30 calibers. Big mistake! A support arm got bent back so the duck got jammed on the motor mount. Open range so I couldn't run out and fix it. Three of us shooting .22's shot it for several hours at 25 yards without an issue. I'll take it to the target hospital and tune it up. Next event I'll provide .22's for those who only have large bore guns. Too much energy at such a close distance for the poor thing. I find it quite fun to shoot timed and against others. 🙂 

Right now I'm working on a couple drop targets with a remote reset. Two prairie dog silhouettes will drop at an angle so they land on each other. It's for a timed race event where you shoot drop targets against the guy next to you. Then shoot the final prairie dog target to determine the winner. It's obvious if it's close, who was first to hit it because it will be under the other prairie dog.

Lol, target hospital....yeah those .30 are tough on targets ...man on man shooting, that adds a new level to the game. That would be a blast. Like action pistol with pew pew...

I made this up 2 months ago, it was time consuming to get it to work properly. Blast the tops full auto then,  precision to reset the tops...

Nice! Doesn't it take a fair amount of energy to get the top ones to reset? Damn, I wish I had your shop!  Needs more boobs. 😉 🤣 

Here is what I was talking about on the Prairie dog stop. Start upright.

When shot down they cross each other so you know who's dropped first. Each will have a separate color.

12v linear reset actuator.

Very cool, so the one actuator resets both at same time?  How fast is the reset ? 

It takes some energy to reset my tops, 30 fpe at muzzle will reset the target set at 50 yards.   I had to add the spring to assist in reseting so I could get it to work at 30fpe. 

If we lived closer, we could make some cool stuff then we would have 2 boobs in the shop.🍻

And I apologize for posting a pick, wasnt thinking, dont want to hijack on your bad ass thread. 👍

Posted by: @davec107

If we lived closer, we could make some cool stuff then we would have 2 boobs in the shop.🍻

And I apologize for posting a pick, wasnt thinking, dont want to hijack on your bad ass thread. 👍

The more the merrier. 👍 Post what ever you have.  Don't worry about your shit looking better than mine. 😜 🤣 

Personally I find boobs better in pairs. 😎 

Posted by: @davec107

Very cool, so the one actuator resets both at same time?  How fast is the reset ? 

It takes some energy to reset my tops, 30 fpe at muzzle will reset the target set at 50 yards.   I had to add the spring to assist in reseting so I could get it to work at 30fpe. 

Yes, one actuator does both at once. Takes about 3 seconds. If you look at the upright photo you can just see a bar between the targets, it's a T bar. As it comes up it lifts both targets.

Posted by: @pluric

Posted by: @davec107

If we lived closer, we could make some cool stuff then we would have 2 boobs in the shop.🍻

And I apologize for posting a pick, wasnt thinking, dont want to hijack on your bad ass thread. 👍

The more the merrier. 👍 Post what ever you have.  Don't worry about your shit looking better than mine. 😜 🤣 

Personally I find boobs better in pairs. 😎 

Mmm, pairs.... 😁

Mine will never be as good as yours. Im going to look into the actuators. Care to post the link to the one you like ? That way we can all profit from your research. Heck I dont want to go looking it up myself and trial and error...you think one actuator will lift a set of silhouettes?

And once its lifted does it self reset the acuator arm down or do you have to hit the remote ?

Dave

Posted by: @davec107

Posted by: @pluric

Posted by: @davec107

If we lived closer, we could make some cool stuff then we would have 2 boobs in the shop.🍻

And I apologize for posting a pick, wasnt thinking, dont want to hijack on your bad ass thread. 👍

The more the merrier. 👍 Post what ever you have.  Don't worry about your shit looking better than mine. 😜 🤣 

Personally I find boobs better in pairs. 😎 

Mmm, pairs.... 😁

Mine will never be as good as yours. Im going to look into the actuators. Care to post the link to the one you like ? That way we can all profit from your research. Heck I dont want to go looking it up myself and trial and error...you think one actuator will lift a set of silhouettes?

And once its lifted does it self reset the acuator arm down or do you have to hit the remote ?

Dave

You have to make sure it's a high speed actuator. 50mm a second works well. I use one of these,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-50mm-s-Linear-Actuator-Motor-High-Speed-50-400mm-Electric-Lift-Door-Opener/293025133967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

You do have to push a return button.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wireless-DC-Motor-Linear-Actuator-Controller-9-30V-Forward-Reverse-Control-Kits/191414880819?

Yes, one actuator is quite strong and can lift multiple targets.

Ha, I learned video posting from your thread... 😘 plenty warm in the shop tonight...

This thread makes me feel inadequate.

Posted by: @gratewhitehuntr

This thread makes me feel inadequate.

My privates make me feel that way. 😢 

Posted by: @davec107

Ha, I learned video posting from your thread... 😘 plenty warm in the shop tonight...

Wow, I'd never come out of the garage if I had that machine. I spend half my time grinding the slag off the back side of the cut and grinding the cut edges smooth. I feel like an ole time black smith beating metal on an anvil. Very cool machine! As ball park as you want to make it, how much is something like that?

For starters you'll need a power supply with adequate duty cycle (100%?) and compressor to match.

You'll need between 75A and 130A of 240v. (note that NEC has de-rated ampacity of SER enclosed in insulation to 60C table)

That is where my knowledge ends, we've JUST learned to 3D print, CNC is still a little ways off.

Posted by: @pluric

Posted by: @gratewhitehuntr

This thread makes me feel inadequate.

My privates make me feel that way. 😢 

Wow that ... uh... that... uh... huh.

Ok.

Posted by: @pluric

Posted by: @davec107

Ha, I learned video posting from your thread... 😘 plenty warm in the shop tonight...

Wow, I'd never come out of the garage if I had that machine. I spend half my time grinding the slag off the back side of the cut and grinding the cut edges smooth. I feel like an ole time black smith beating metal on an anvil. Very cool machine! As ball park as you want to make it, how much is something like that?

For a 4x4 plasma table depending on brand your looking around 10-15k, add another 2-3k for plasma cutter, throw in a compressor and a laptop and your ready your roll.  I have a 100amp service for the shop and my plasma cutter is a hypertherm 85amp running on a 60 amp 220 breaker. I can cut 3/4" inch steel, 1 inch if I start the cut on the edge. When all settings are dialed in, it is pretty much slag free cuts.

There are used set ups out there, thats where this one came from. Craigslist. Paid less than half the price of new. 

Any thoughts on these systems for use by a "hobbiest"?

https://www.langmuirsystems.com/

Mechanically its very similar to how my torchmate works, lead screws and stepper motors. I find this type of set up works well up to speeds of 150 inches a minute cutting speed. Much over 150ipm the steppers will loose steps during quick movements.  

For a home shop a water table is the way to go for controlling the smoke. Some use down draft but then you need a fan and ductwork to pull the smoke out of the shop.

Ive never heard of that system, it may be great. My only concern is customer support. With torchmate I can call there facility in Reno and get help with a phone call. And I have called a lot. 

If your looking at cnc plasmas I would go to plasmaspider.com and look under the manufacturer's area and see all the brands out there and see what comments the users have. 

My brother has a 2x2 Baleigh table, its nice but he has more problems than me and customer service is almost non existent. 

Plasmacam has been around for ever and I hear good things about them.

Anything bigger than 2x2 you need a THC(torch height control) on the Z axis either voltage based or ohmnic sensing to account for material warping. You want to maintain a .060 or so gap between torch and material for best cuts and consumable life. Plus on thicker metal the torch pierces at .250 then lowers to .060 for the cut. 

Lots to consider, I've had a cnc table for over 10 years now, started with a 2x2 and now its a 4x4. Next 5x10 ?

Posted by: @isledweller

Any thoughts on these systems for use by a "hobbiest"?

https://www.langmuirsystems.com/

I started to sniff around on a table now. Your link looks very interesting. Especially on price. I have zero clue how you would load the design to cut on to a computer. Scan it?? I'll have to continue sniffing for more information. If my wife would ever let me retire this looks like it could keep me busy. Not a big deal, I can still cobble out my hand cut stuff. Just it looks so hand cut.

Rick, you will have to learn to draw on a cad program. There are ways to scan an image, but they always need clean up in a cad program. One you get a drawing you have to convert it to a dxf file. Then you need to convert it into a gcode and tell it to cut female tool paths for holes and male tool path for perimeter, lead ins and such. The gcode is what the tables uses to cut objects. 

The drawing is the hardest part. Ive got 1000s of drawings and more time than I care to think about drawing and getting it right so you dont have to throw it in the scrap pile. 

You can cut some intricate stuff if you spend enough time drawing on cad.  Tgere are people who will draw objects for you for a reasonable price. I had a detailed badge I needed to cut and did not have the time to draw it from scratch. I sent a photo of what I needed and got a almost cut ready file for like 40 bucks. Money well spent. Ill attach the picture of the final project. 

Its not that hard, just time consuming. 

Posted by: @davec107

Rick, you will have to learn to draw on a cad program. There are ways to scan an image, but they always need clean up in a cad program. One you get a drawing you have to convert it to a dxf file. Then you need to convert it into a gcode and tell it to cut female tool paths for holes and male tool path for perimeter, lead ins and such. The gcode is what the tables uses to cut objects. 

The drawing is the hardest part. Ive got 1000s of drawings and more time than I care to think about drawing and getting it right so you dont have to throw it in the scrap pile. 

You can cut some intricate stuff if you spend enough time drawing on cad.  Tgere are people who will draw objects for you for a reasonable price. I had a detailed badge I needed to cut and did not have the time to draw it from scratch. I sent a photo of what I needed and got a almost cut ready file for like 40 bucks. Money well spent. Ill attach the picture of the final project. 

Its not that hard, just time consuming. 

Yeah, I tried Google translate and it couldn't help me on that. 😉 🤣 

Looks like I'll be using my hand held a little longer.  😯 

That badge is amazing!

@pluric

Lol, yeah a lot going on..nothing's wrong hand cutting. Ive done tons of that.  

Ok back to targets. Made this up today. 

Posted by: @davec107

@pluric

Lol, yeah a lot going on..nothing's wrong hand cutting. Ive done tons of that.  

Ok back to targets. Made this up today. 

What gauge is the metal on the frog? Hard to tell but it looks like a .30 caliber would be having frog legs for dinner.

Nice design. I could never hand cut with that kind of detail.

Lol, for sure .30  and its frog legs. Its 12 ga. Only made for 12fpe and under,  special request needed it light weight so it would spin with wimpy pew pew..

Posted by: @pluric

My first try at a remote control reset knock down target. The plan is to make two of these for a speed challenge event. Did 15 knockdowns intentionally so there would be a mandatory magazine change and the 8 shot magazine guns would have more level playing field. The last shot would be for the final knock down to determine who got there first.

Ordered some 12v linear actuators from ebay. Didn't have a clue how much travel I would need so I started with 8 inches. Turns out for this project 4 inches is fine. I know there's a dirty joke in there somewhere. 😜  Anyway, found a relatively high speed (50mm a second) actuator and made this. I wish I could upload a video. It takes three seconds to reset, another three to lower the reset bar. I walked out about 75 yards and the remote still triggered the actuator so that should be plenty. I will add the front armor later when the second one is done. 

I finally got around to finishing the stop target for this event. So there are two 15 count circle targets that side by side shooters race to shoot as fast as possible. It's usually about 40-50 yards out. Then you have to shoot the stop target to see who finishes first. They are designed to fall at an angle so one will land on top of the other. The trick is the stop target is 10-15 yards out and hard to find if you have your scope set for 50 yards. You lose time to adjust for it or you just shoot at the blur.

I made this wireless reset stop target to go with it.

That works slick, another fine job👍you just keep setting the bar higher for new target designs. I cant wait to knock the paint off of those in June...or attempt to chip paint...

Fun afternoon project. I'd found these plastic target bottles on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Pack-Bottle-Shooting-Targets-Reusable-Resetting-Reactive-Range-Practice-Target/264540972063?hash=item3d97dee41f:g:1KwAAOSw~MZd1seC

They come with hanging strings and a storage bag. I pictured the strings getting shot up fast so I decided to use chains. As long as I was going to make it a project I took some bed frame angle iron and made a take down frame for it. I was shocked to find out I couldn't drill it in the deep V part. Wrecked several bits and thought I'm getting the plasma cutter involved. I'd even run to Home Depot and bought the $10 a bit super last 15 times longer wonder bit. Fried before making it halfway through the first hole. 😠 

Took 1/4 inch eyelets and spread them open in a vice. Put the chain link in and pressed it closed using the vice.

The bottom of the bottle has a larger hole so using an extension I could get the nut on the eyelet bolt inside the bottle. The smaller bottles had too small of a neck to get it all the way. It will still work fine.

When hit they swing and make the next shot harder. I know the bottles will get shot up but I think they will last for a while. Easy change out when destroyed.

If someone wants the "easy button" a set of these brackets and some old studs will make a quick stand.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=saw%20horse%20brackets

Even pre-cut threaded pipe or PVC could be make a quick stand too. Better than picking up bottles after one shot.

I made this for a friend over the weekend. Combination target with a bit of everything. The round spinner is just two metal circles cut in half and welded on a tube.

This looks like some kinda drinking game!

I'll call it... "Beer Ping!"

Call your shots... I'm gonna take the gun outta his right hand...

@pluric

I love the rack of targets.  It looks great!  Maybe some day I can place an order with you for a carnival sized mega arcade.

I love airgun targets.  I have about a dozen Steel Plinkers targets of every sort including resets, head resets, quads, and spinners, a Caldwell Moving Target arcade with smaller paddles, and several racks of different spinners, a bell target, a Gamo Rocker target, some small resettable silhouette racks, cow bells, and a bunch of larger silhouette targets.  I even have a Lyman paper target that will scroll down new targets as needed.  It it so fun to set up a whole field with targets and have a bunch of airgunners get together and plink for the day.  i haven't done that in a couple years.

David Enoch

Posted by: @davidenoch

@pluric

I love the rack of targets.  It looks great!  Maybe some day I can place an order with you for a carnival sized mega arcade.

I love airgun targets.  I have about a dozen Steel Plinkers targets of every sort including resets, head resets, quads, and spinners, a Caldwell Moving Target arcade with smaller paddles, and several racks of different spinners, a bell target, a Gamo Rocker target, some small resettable silhouette racks, cow bells, and a bunch of larger silhouette targets.  I even have a Lyman paper target that will scroll down new targets as needed.  It it so fun to set up a whole field with targets and have a bunch of airgunners get together and plink for the day.  i haven't done that in a couple years.

David Enoch

Yup, I was asked to let a youth group shoot for an activity. Between all the targets, benches and guns I had to take a trailer. Fortunately, my son was available to help load and fill air. It was all girls. They loved it! I was surprised at how they all responded. I think the no recoil and low noise made it fun for them. It's hard to see but my Caldwell shooting gallery is in the field. I'd put a metal plate in front to protect the finish. At the end, I'd offered $5 to anyone who could hit it at 40 yards using a shooting stick. First two shooters nailed it with a FX Streamline .22. I started to worry I didn't have enough cash with me. 🤑  No one else hit it so I was lucky. 😎 

I have so many targets in the back garage I don't even remember what's there. I'll open a case and think, "oh, I remember those". I hate to admit it but I've bought an airgun forgetting I already had the same one. 😳  I can't tell if the mind is starting to go or if that's normal for my age. 😕 

Speaking of range targets. I brought these home from Utah Airguns indoor range. I'm going to give them a tune-up at my Target Hospital. They've had a hard life. I'm also working on replacing them with a different style that hopefully will be more .30 caliber friendly.

Not sure what I'll do with these. I just wanted to practice with the plasma cutter.

After looking at the bird silhouettes I had an idea. A tree target. Cherry tree so I could add some small "cherry" spinners too. Made a couple squirrels as well. First target I've done where all the silhouettes were hand done by me.

Gave one of the crows a head shot spinner.

Well that looks really nice!

I had cut out some Pot Gut silhouettes and wasn't sure what to do with them. I'd made a break down travel target box for my UTV and didn't have any break down targets at home. So, I went simple with these. Wanted them to be flat in the ammo box. Simple slot cut in the silhouette and the same on the base support.

Little paint and I have enough to set out at different distances.

Took the last bird silhouettes and made a simple hanger that removes from the bird for storage.

Well, this turned out more work than I thought. I've wanted a rat race target for a while now and started on it yesterday. Getting close to done now. may want to slow it down a bit. Or leave it for more challenge.

@pluric  HI, I am sorry if I missed but do you sell targets? I have been a member on the Yellow for along time but have not been on much past 6 years on and off since I had a little son. Now I just taught him to shoot and he loves to shoot but my targets are banged up and bent purchased from Steel Plinkers(which is no longer in business)

Your Targets are fantastic.

Thank you,

JR

Due to the Covid outbreak our local airgun event sponsor has cancelled all competitions. Some shooters are trying to do a few events on their own. I was asked to help with targets. Oh no big deal, they only needed 34 for next month and 20 Field Targets for the month after that. What??? Then as they spoke about future plans I felt I needed to design a system that would allow for flexibility without having to make all new targets. Kind of a component system.

The black squares are to hold magnetic numbers. With that many targets shooters can get lost. So numbers will help keep them on track. I wanted removable numbers so the stands could be set up first and then number them. 

First event is two rows of 17 targets from 30-200 yards. 

I thought their requested sizes were too easy for bench rested guns. So the system I have allows target changes in seconds. Pull a clip and you can slide a replacement in.

So with spare options I will make if shooters complain it's too easy then we can replace them with smaller diameter options.

Animal silhouettes, KYL style targets are all available options. The system breaks down for storage or transport.

It also stores nicely. This is 34 targets taking up very little space considering the amount.

They also want to do Field Target events. I'm making uprights that will allow removable targets yet provide a steady base so no pounding it in the ground to fall over. 

Can also use the base to hold a metal frame if paper targets need a support. All would break down for transport and storage.

Would you need targets that pull up with a string for field target? I like the stand idea. Could you mount them in a tree. We have a lot mounted in trees, at matches around here. Don

Posted by: @doninva

Would you need targets that pull up with a string for field target? I like the stand idea. Could you mount them in a tree. We have a lot mounted in trees, at matches around here. Don

In Utah, areas we can shoot in generally don't have trees available. So it's more of a desert landscape or a gun range for an event. Making 20 drop targets by next month could be a time problem. They prefer the drop with a string return. When I announced that I was done with the August targets the guy with a commercial plasma cutter sent me this photo,

Sheesh, 75 cut outs. I may try both styles with a shot reset and a drop with string reset. They're killing me here! 😲 

I tried the shoot to reset targets. I still have one in my shop, on a shelf. My wife requested l not shoot it on my range. She said the pellets were bouncing off and hitting in the trees next to her chicken coupe. Don

It apears someone doesn't want you to get bored! 

Posted by: @doninva

It apears someone doesn't want you to get bored! 

I retired in April. It's the ole cliche "I don't know how I ever had time to work!" Honestly I've never been so busy. I want my old job back just to get the rest. 😉 😀  If it was winter it wouldn't be so bad. Summer is suppose to be my play time. I don't do winter sports and look forward to winter garage time. 

Small update on the "component" target system I've been working on. Made a string pull reset target. They are more labor intensive. Just had to figure out the linkage enough so it wouldn't drop when the silhouette was hit. I put an early drop stop on it to make resetting it easier.

I also wanted to be able to make it more challenging with kill shot hole size. I welded some channel in a V shape on the back and can drop in circle plugs with different hole sizes. 

I then switched to reset style targets. Drop the top and reset by shooting the lower circle. Much simpler linkage. The ram is just a simple swing hanger.

They are all made to work with the bases and stands I'd already made. 

Interesting Pluric!

What if I told you that there is a target design that is a "half-way" embodiment between pull reset, shoot to reset, and spinner?

It needs some refinement, but the basics are good.

Target blocks with bad shots, falls down with good shots and resets itself (no electrics) after a short while.

Would you be interested in making a run?

If so, PM me, please.

HM