Giving the Nova Freedom (and related Nova Vista repeaters) the Trigger it Deserves

The ATI Nova Freedom, when first available about a year ago, excited a lot of interest because as a self-contained PCP with multistage pump, repeating action, and shrouded barrel, it's (almost) the functional equivalent of the popular FX Independence -- but at $379 shipped, it's only 1/4th the price!

https://airgunwarriors.com/community/airgun-talk/nova-freedom-multi-pump-multi-shot-unboxing-video-177-22/#post-6650

One feature of this otherwise amazing rifle, however, that doesn't measure up to other aspects of its performance and quality, is its mediocre trigger.  Although billed as an "adjustable 2-stage," it really isn't because like so many so-named triggers in inexpensive (and even some not-so inexpensive!) airguns, the "1st stage" does nothing but compress a "simulation" (trigger return) spring.

Consequently, since its "2nd Stage" does all the actual work of moving the sear to and through break (while the "1st Stage" contributes nothing), it must (for safety) require significant energy input from your trigger finger to fire. This translates to more pull weight than most shooters prefer (nearly 4lbs in current production guns) and (what's worse) motion (creep).  This combination isn't ideal for accuracy or fun.

Since tinkering with airgun triggers is a long standing hobby of mine -- like this foray into the Plinkster's...

...this into the Gamo's...

...and this into the Talon's...

...I've started a similar effort to explore the potential of the Freedom's trigger.  It's already looking verrrry good.

More to follow!

Steve,

I actually turned my Freedom trigger into a "3" stage. I installed an additional screw into trigger unit in the hole to the left of the "trigger sear screw" in your 1st picture. This screw was installed approx 1/2 turn less then the "trigger sear screw" so that when looking at the pic it will be just slightly less sticking above the trigger then the "trigger sear screw".

The "1st stage" of the trigger is the "take up" of the trigger between the at rest position and when the "trigger sear screw" touches the sear. (If this 1st stage it taken out the trigger is at an angle where the safety will not engage) The "2nd stage" is the travel of the sear upward (from the force of the "trigger sear screw" pushing it) until the added screw touches the sear. The "3rd stage" is the travel of the sear via the additional screw until firing. If one were able to take out the 1st stage it would function as a normal 2 stage trigger.

I adjusted my screws starting with the additional screw. I adjusted this screw until the gun would not cock, and then backed it out until it just cocked. I then adjusted the "trigger sear screw" to be approx 1/2 turn "Shorter" then the added screw.

In an ideal situation the trigger and sear should be lengthened to the rear as this would greatly reduce the pull weight of the 2nd stage. My trigger was still too heavy for me, but broke very cleanly

Posted by: BigTinBoat

Steve,

I actually turned my Freedom trigger into a "3" stage. I installed an additional screw...

...I adjusted this screw until the gun would not cock, and then backed it out until it just cocked.

Thanks for the interesting post.

Of course the best "safety" is consistent muzzle control discipline whenever the gun is cocked and loaded, but the classic "bump test" to check for sensitivity to misfires is still useful.  So please don't construe this question as implied criticism, but with your added screw adjusted until, as you say, the gun "just cocked," I am wondering about how resistant it is to bumps.

Have you tested it?

Posted by: Steve in NC

Posted by: BigTinBoat

Steve,

I actually turned my Freedom trigger into a "3" stage. I installed an additional screw...

...I adjusted this screw until the gun would not cock, and then backed it out until it just cocked.

Thanks for the interesting post.

Of course the best "safety" is consistent muzzle control discipline whenever the gun is cocked and loaded, but the classic "bump test" to check for sensitivity to misfires is still useful.  So please don't construe this question as implied criticism, but with your added screw adjusted until, as you say, the gun "just cocked," I am wondering about how resistant it is to bumps.

Have you tested it?

Yes I did test, always do with my triggers. I basically hit the side of receiver with the heal of my hand trying to get the gun to fire. I do this getting progressively harder until the force hurts my hand. I also rotate the gun different ways while hitting it. While not scientific, I figure if this doesn't make it fire I'm good.

But remember, with this trigger I am then backing out the "1st stage simulation screw" so that I can get the "physical" safety to set. The only time the gun will be in that position again will be when the trigger is at the "2nd stage" point. If that makes sense.

Posted by: BigTinBoat

But remember, with this trigger I am then backing out the "1st stage simulation screw" so that I can get the "physical" safety to set. The only time the gun will be in that position again will be when the trigger is at the "2nd stage" point. If that makes sense.

Actually it sounds like you're adjusting both screws so that, at the very beginning of the pull, neither screw is touching the sear.  This state would account for the first (lightest) of your three stages, when only (what I call) the "simulation spring" is resisting trigger movement.

I guess which screw is then first to touch the sear as the pull progresses is a matter for conjecture, but my bet is it's your added screw, rather than the factory "trigger sear screw," simply because the mechanical ratios are such that, if the factory screw was first, then your added screw would never catch up and make contact.  I.e., your added screw would do nothing.

But since it obviously does do something, it must make contact first, with the factory screw touching later -- and therefore last.

Posted by: Steve in NC

Actually it sounds like you're adjusting both screws so that, at the very beginning of the pull, neither screw is touching the sear.  This state would account for the first (lightest) of your three stages, when only (what I call) the "simulation spring" is resisting trigger movement.

I guess which screw is then first to touch the sear as the pull progresses is a matter for conjecture, but my bet is it's your added screw, rather than the factory "trigger sear screw," simply because the mechanical ratios are such that, if the factory screw was first, then your added screw would never catch up and make contact.  I.e., your added screw would do nothing.

But since it obviously does do something, it must make contact first, with the factory screw touching later -- and therefore last.

That is correct, neither screw is touching. If it were adjusted so that either screw was touching then the safety would not engage.

I'm not certain when screw is touching "first" as I cannot see it while functioning, but I do know that I wound up having the "added" screw approximately 1/2 turn more into the trigger. (ie if the stock screw was 4 turns in, the added screw was 4.5 turns in)

This is how the trigger wound up with the trigger being the lightest I could get it.

Not positive as I no longer have the gun, but I don't remember the sear (when cocked) being at the angle shown in the diagram.

Well, it took a little longer than I originally expected, but the new true 2-stage Nova trigger is now available.

The Nova Freedom is possibly the only PCP that I'm interested in, so thank you, sir, for sharing this, in the event that I pony up and get one!

So i made the changes you suggested and got it to work really well 

I can get it to still have a working safety, and a very light trigger pull. 

However to get the 1st stage to engage I have to activate the safety and pull the trigger to set the 1st stage. once thats done the 2nd stage is just the flap of a butterfly's wings. its still however not susceptible to going off when bumped vigorously 

I can very much live with this trigger. 

without setting 1st stage with the safety its a quite a hard pull but with safety step added its sublime. 

An thoughts on how to get more feel between 1st and 2nd ?

Posted by: MichaelScholtz

So i made the changes you suggested and got it to work really well 

I can get it to still have a working safety, and a very light trigger pull. 

However to get the 1st stage to engage I have to activate the safety and pull the trigger to set the 1st stage. once thats done the 2nd stage is just the flap of a butterfly's wings. its still however not susceptible to going off when bumped vigorously 

I can very much live with this trigger. 

without setting 1st stage with the safety its a quite a hard pull but with safety step added its sublime. 

An thoughts on how to get more feel between 1st and 2nd ?

Hmmmm.  When you implemented Step #10, did you adjust for the first appearance of a 2nd stage as the instructions recommend?  If not, try backing off the 2nd stage screw until you have only a 1st stage, then slooooooowly approach it again.

Hi Big Tin 

I’M a Marylander as well from Beltsville.

I just got my Liberty Nova .22 and I was looking to install that extra screw, could you please let me know the type and size of  that screws? Also did you replaced the original ones? That one in front of the trigger won’t turn seems to be a bit short same thing with that one behind the trigger 

thanks

Marcelolima75,

Can't speak to the guns but if you ever want to drive a little north and shoot for a day, BTB and I are 10min apart and I have plenty of room. Bel Air MD area....  

@steve-in-nc

How can I get your trigger kit for the Nova Freedom?

Posted by: @nccarl

@steve-in-nc

How can I get your trigger kit for the Nova Freedom?Cli

Click:   https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/parts/nova-freedom-custom-two-stage-trigger-upgrade/

The kit works with the Liberty, too.